Pubs and restaurants open, no mask… In Guernsey, normal life cut off from the world


Côbo beach, in the north of the island of Guernsey, is popular with locals who come to enjoy the sunset on the terrace. – J. Le Tocq

  • While France will experience a new turn of the screw to curb the spread of the Covid-19 epidemic, some territories are living almost normally.
  • This is the case on the island of Guernsey, north of Saint-Malo, where two episodes of strict containment made it possible to eradicate the virus.
  • Closed to visitors, the island has been living in self-sufficiency for over a year. A hard blow for the tourist activity but a choice which allows the inhabitants to live normally.

It is an environment that we have not known for over a year. A “normal” life where no law requires the wearing of a mask. Where restaurants are open and bars cater to a sparse crowd of people coming out of work and enjoying a coffee or a freshly served draft beer. A life where hospitals treat normally without fear of having to intubate several patients in the same night. This life that we regret so much still exists in some areas. While President Emmanuel Macron has announced a strengthening of health restrictions due to the galloping spread of the Covid-19 epidemic in France, some are enjoying a normal life, only a few kilometers from the Normandy and Breton coasts.

On the island of Guernsey, residents only hear about the coronavirus when they turn on the TV in the evening to watch the news from England or France. “We don’t really realize what’s going on elsewhere. It’s like living in a bubble. We have barbecues with our friends, we drink a few beers. What do we live normally, ”explains Alan, who lives in the south of the island, located just over 40 kilometers from the Cotentin coast.

Two hospitals for 65,000 residents

If it is close to Normandy, Guernsey is nevertheless under the control of the English crown, while keeping its autonomy, like its neighbor Jersey. The island was not completely spared and has counted several hundred sick among its 65,000 residents. A total of thirteen people have died but the epidemic has not spread. “We knew that our two hospitals could not cope with a massive influx of patients. We acted quickly and severely, ”explains local MP Jonathan Le Tocq in excellent French.

The population of Guernsey has experienced two episodes of strict containment which made it possible to eradicate the Covid-19 epidemic. – Visit Guernsey

As of March 2020, his government imposed a strict confinement of twelve weeks. Schools had closed, businesses had closed and the economy had shut down. At the end of this period, each family was allowed to review one, then two, then three. With a proactive system of “contact tracing” and a strict border closure, the island had succeeded in eradicating the virus before the summer.

One year in self-sufficiency

“We were struck by the solidarity of our community. People respected the rules and we were able to travel to the other islands of the bailiwick [Guernesey compte plusieurs îles] like Alderney, Sark or Herm. It was a way of rediscovering our close environment, ”continues the deputy, who has not left the island for the first time in fifty years.

“We are very lucky to live in this bubble. Here, I feel safe ”

If a resident wanted to leave the island, even to go to Jersey, he had to take a test on his return and observe a fortnight quarantine without leaving his home. For more than a year, Guernsey has therefore been living in self-sufficiency, behind closed doors. While many are deprived of their family or friends living in France or the UK, most know they are privileged. “We are very lucky to live in this bubble. Here, I feel safe, ”explains Ulisis. Originally from Portugal, he returned home in November to see his family. “If I had to do it again, I wouldn’t do it again. It cost me a fortune and it was a hassle. I saw the London airport deserted, all businesses closed. In Portugal, nothing was open, we couldn’t go out. When we live here, we tend to forget how it is elsewhere. “

In January, the emergence of four new cases forced the government to impose a new strict eight-week lockdown. Since March 22, the entire population has been living normally and taking advantage of a radiant spring to celebrate. All is not rosy, however, and certain sectors linked to tourism are suffering terribly. “We have just reopened the hotel after a year of closure. We host a few locals but that only represents five or six of the 38 rooms, ”explains Ulisis, who works at the Hougue du Pommier hotel.

“We are discussing the conditions for the return of tourists”

For more than a year, the Condor Ferries ships which are used to serving the island have stopped sailing and the 800 to 900,000 annual visitors have been missing. A situation which weighs on the economy of the island, known to be a tax haven and of which 50% of the activity is based on financial and banking services. Local officials have just announced their intention to gradually reopen the borders of their territory. To do this, they are counting on a proactive vaccination campaign, which has already seen a third of residents receive their two injections. “We are discussing the conditions for returning tourists. Will we set up a vaccination passport? I don’t know yet, ”asks Jonathan Le Tocq.

In the ranks of the population, some do not seem in a hurry to see French and English tourists return, for fear of seeing the epidemic start again. The example of the neighboring island of Jersey, still confined, does not appeal to them. “I know some people have money problems. But does this have to reopen this summer when the epidemic is a problem everywhere? I prefer to wait for it to come down. Frankly, I don’t think the island will reopen this summer, ”concludes the manager of the Happy Landings pub, located a stone’s throw from a deserted airport. In French, “happy landings” can be translated as “good landing”. In Guernsey, we especially hope that the epidemic does not take off again.



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