Nothing helps, you can’t escape your clichés after all. So if you head for the Munich Platzl to eat out, you think of baroque classics. To Alfons Schuhbeck and the wide-legged Gastropomp, which he celebrated here for years, starting of course with the Südtiroler Stuben, later in the fine-dining offshoot “Alfons”, but which ended after three years. In the summer of 2020, Corona was just starting the second wave, and then it opened there Golden in the Boettnersand while you’re thinking of brocade heavy and high-priced things, a glance at the menu knocks all the clichés into the bin: penne arrabiata for 9.90 euros, have a nice good evening.
Irene Scopel and Lisa Strauss, the operators, have already brought together the wine bar “Das kleine Kameel” in Hofgraben, in Goldig they now offer classic Mediterranean, especially Italian cuisine. The Boettners, as the house was called for a long time, was one of the most traditional restaurants in the city, the stucco ceilings and chandeliers are reminiscent of days gone by, otherwise the guest rooms have been gently modernized, lots of wood, lots of indirect light.
You can tell that they cook fresh every day by the fact that at half past seven in the evening the risotto and ravioli from the menu of the day are sold out, sometimes the guinea fowl. So be it, the “classics” remain, which are exactly what they are on the menu and that’s exactly what they are. The appetizers are particularly good here. Take the beef carpaccio Cipriani (15.50 euros), for example, which is sliced paper-thin and requires nothing more than a few strands of homemade mayonnaise, pepper and olive oil. Or the vitello tonnato (15.50 euros), which is not only very juicy, but also has the pickled red onions pleasantly refreshing the tuna sauce. While the chickpeas still have a nice bite to eat with the flamed mackerel (15.90 euros), the octopus carpaccio (17.90 euros) shows that the kitchen seasons the course with diced celery and olives rather than a veil salt and pepper to impose.
The noodles are also impeccable at Goldig. The ravioli with ricotta, spinach and sage butter (15.50 euros) taste comfortably rustic, the tagliolini with black truffles (21.90 euros) as elegant as you know them as Tajarin from Piedmont. However, we think that when it comes to pasta, at the latest, we notice the dishes’ central inner-city location. The plates look as if they should taste just as good for FC Bayern fans as they do for busy business women, for opera goers as well as for department store goers (two women opposite have their C&A bags stowed under the table). The taste is almost streamlined here, no corners, no edges, and whatever you order: You won’t go wrong with any course. But it also means that there are no surprises.
Best example: the risotto with baby calamari. Very creamy, the grain al dente, the seafood perfectly cooked. A risotto as it should be, no less, but no more. Incidentally, the portion for two people later appears on the bill at 49 euros, keyword being downtown location.
For the main courses, it’s worth taking a look at the menu of the day, although the kitchen also avoids any risk here. The entrecôte (29.50 euros) is tender, the jus strong and heavy, as you are used to from classic meat dishes. A mystery remains, however, why the purple potatoes are so dry and tasteless.
Then prefer the skrei with mustard sauce and mashed potatoes (25.50 euros), which is on the menu another evening. The mild fish goes well with the spicy sauce, the puree is creamy but not at all sticky, and the carrots and sugar snap peas add enough texture to hold the whole thing together.
When it comes to desserts, the kitchen is the same as for the previous courses: Please only hike on the signposted paths. The lemon sorbet (4.90 euros) comes with a few leaves of decency mint, otherwise no antics. The mille-feuille (8.90 euros) is not layered with puff pastry, but with pane carasau, a Sardinian version of flatbread. This makes the mouthfeel more interesting, but doesn’t change the fact that the cream’s taste evaporates quickly.
The restaurant review “Kostprobe” in the Süddeutsche Zeitung has a long tradition: it has been published weekly in the local section since 1975, and online for a few years now and with a rating scale. About a dozen editors with culinary expertise from all departments – from Munich, science to politics – take turns writing about the city’s gastronomy. The choice is endless, the Bavarian economy is just as important as the Greek fish restaurant, the American fast food chain, the special bratwurst stand or the gourmet restaurant decorated with stars. The special thing about the SZ taster: The authors write under pseudonyms, often with a culinary touch. They go into the restaurant to be tested unnoticed about two or three times, depending on how long the budget given by the editors lasts. Iron basic rules: a grace period of one hundred days for the kitchen of a new restaurant to familiarize itself. And: Never get caught working as a restaurant critic – to be able to describe food and drink, service and atmosphere impartially. SZ
It is only good for the Platzl that Goldig has opened a restaurant there that offers classic cuisine at everyday prices in an unpretentious way and without much fanfare. However, it should expect its guests to be a little more willing to take risks. Because if you don’t go on the ice, you won’t slip – but you shouldn’t expect too much else either.
Golden in the BoettnersPfisterstraße 9, 80331 Munich, telephone: 089/24210372, opening hours: Monday to Saturday 11 a.m. to 10.30 p.m., hot meals 11.30 a.m. to 8.30 p.m.