Munich: Celebrity chef Tohru Nakamura’s new restaurant “Schreiberei” – Munich

Eating out is sometimes like going to the cinema. At Burgstrasse 5, at Marienplatz around the corner, you used to feel a bit like Ivanhoe, the noble knight: After all, the wine bar “Hofer, der Stadtwirt” was housed in a 450-year-old town house from the late Middle Ages. Then the pandemic came, Hofer moved out, and star chef Tohru Nakamura moved in. First with the Salon Rouge pop-up restaurant on the first floor, which looked like a small knight’s hall from a German author’s film from the 1970s (“Herz aus Glas” by Werner Herzog, perhaps), then with an open-air fast-food restaurant in the inner courtyard.

Now Nakamura is back after a summer interlude in the Werksviertel. “Tohru in der Schreiberei” is the name of his new restaurant at Burgstrasse 5, and this time it is really big cinema and the equipment alone is Oscar-worthy – as far as the food is concerned, something similar can be expected. But you won’t know more details until the beginning of December, when the restaurant opens.

Tohru Nakamura, who earned his two Michelin stars with his team at Werneckhof, has already been through a lot in the pandemic. First the Werneckhof was given up, then the pop-ups began. But then, surprisingly, he found his new headquarters in Burgstrasse. “I actually want to stay here for the next 30 years,” he says. All of this came about because the listed house had to be renovated (upstairs it is already finished, downstairs on the ground floor is still being worked on).

The menu costs 245 euros

Through mutual acquaintances, Felix Radmer from the owner family and the gastro entrepreneur Marc Uebelherr (including Oskar Maria, Oh Julia) met Nakamura and developed a new concept. A kind of brasserie with 100 seats will move downstairs, and the gourmet restaurant Tohru will open in the Schreiberei on the first floor on Wednesday. Those who reserve upstairs are really indulging in something (the menu costs 245 euros), downstairs it should be a normal restaurant “where you can eat twice a week,” says Uebelherr.

Every detail of the furnishings is right – as far as the food is concerned, the same can be expected.

(Photo: Stephan Rumpf / SZ)

Tohru in the writing room has become a sophisticated living room, the two shades of orange-brûlé and emerald green dominate the rooms. Daniela Wilke and Daniel Hildmann, who are responsible for furnishing numerous upscale restaurants, have provided a magnificent setting in which every detail is right and relates to the whole, from the silhouette of the entrance door that appears again and again to the heavenly staircase to Japanese influences. There they meet congenially with the kitchen of Nakamura.

He, in turn, also relies on Cinemascope and opulence. Twelve items are on the menu, Nakamura avoids the word “courses”, he prefers to speak of “culinary events” and “classic French sauce structures and Asian lightness”. It is clear that the opening card should be something special. One of the highlights will be the saddle of venison, which has been pickled in the Asian way for 24 hours: in keeping with the time, with “vaccinated rice” – which has previously been fermented with the help of koji mushrooms.

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