From colonization to the greatest collections, rum continues its transformation towards excellence

Once upon a time there was the story of a drink with a bad reputation that today sits alongside the shelves of the greatest spirits. By-product of the sugar industry at the time of colonization, rum is no longer the prerogative of slaves, sailors or pirates. “It’s an alcohol that has an ambivalent image linked to its rich and complicated history”, summarizes Maître Hélène Martin, auctioneer in Martinique, specialist in rum.

Today, rum is the third eau-de-vie consumed in France after whiskey and brandy. “Between 2018 and 2021, the volume of high-end rums in France grew by more than 50% and even almost doubled if we only look at the very high end”, underlines Cyrille Hugon, founder of the Rum Fest.

A “premiumization” campaign

The golden age of rum began in the 2000s, with the arrival of new production techniques. These experiments on the raw product (sugar cane) offer a variety of products with gourmet flavors. White, amber and old rums, arranged, spiced or even flavored rums come to frequent (to the great displeasure of certain purists). There is therefore something for all tastes and for the greatest number, unlike whiskeys with aromas considered to be drier. “We managed to demonstrate that the rum was very rich, even within the same distillery,” rejoices Me Hélène Martin.

The producers work at the same time on the packaging, the training of new talents and the communication around the drink. “A real virtuous circle”, for Cyrille Hugon who has seen this “premiumization” gain ground over the past two decades. “In France, it was very marked. We have sharp connoisseurs, a distribution network of wine merchants who can offer 100 different rums and the finest selection in the world,” explains the Rhum Fest organizer.

Brandy has also moved upmarket in supermarkets. “Before on the shelves, the offer was mixed, now it is structured with more references and not just agricultural white rum”, observes the connoisseur. The effervescence affects the spirits market more broadly. The recent takeovers bear witness to this: that of the Venezuelan brand Diplomatico (still sorry to purists) by Brown-Forman, the owner of the famous whiskey Jack Daniel’s, at the end of 2022; and the sale of Filipino rum Don Papa, acquired by Diageo (Johnnie Walker and Smirnoff) for 260 million euros, last January.

“Rum is fun”

The richness and nobility of rums are at the heart of Cyrille Hugon’s Rhum Fest. “I want to show that ‘rum is fun, rum is cocktails, rum is travel'”, he laughs. In 2020, he also opened a section dedicated to arranged rums, in response to the boom in these preparations. But what is a good rum? “It’s giving pleasure, a balance of aromatic notes. It is a product that we taste today and to which we want to come back tomorrow”, answers Karine Lassalle, quality manager of rums and cellar master since 2018 of the JM house in Martinique.

“Also, we don’t have a good rum if we don’t have the right product and a good philosophy to produce it, namely the promotion of the terroir and the respect of know-how”, adds details this chemist by training. , who dreamed of becoming a nose in perfumery before falling into the world of spirits. Recognized internationally, the cellar masters are also on the front of the stage. They bear the responsibility of guaranteeing the quality of the rum and pulling it towards objectives of trend and excellence. “It pushes us to always create, to question ourselves and to imagine new techniques”, analyzes Karine Lassalle.

Complexity and elegance

Today, the environment favors profiles such as agricultural engineers or chemists with more and more skills and more advanced notions and knowledge in the process. “This technicality is perfected over the years and we obtain more and more precise products, which are therefore rarer, because high-quality products take time. That’s why we often have limited editions,” explains the rum quality manager.

A true enthusiast, Hélène Martin created, three years ago in Martinique, a thematic sale around rum and spirits entitled Rum’Antico. She does her best to “weave links between the history of each rum and the object it represents”. Within these auctions, the auctioneer welcomes varied profiles ranging from local buyers to international collectors. Unlike other spirits, premium rum prices are less expensive and start at 25 euros. “Collectors are increasingly looking for complexity through this festive but at the same time elegant and characterful side”, observes Karine Lassalle of Rhums JM Unique cuvées are highly sought after by Hélène Martin’s customers, as are the “treasures of Disappearing distilleries” whose condition of the bottles will be scrutinized.

An era of renewal

In the 1960s through the 1990s, mills and distilleries in the French and British West Indies experienced a wave of closures. But recently, microbreweries, microdistilleries or other heirs are getting back into the cane adventure. This is particularly the case in Guadeloupe with the Papa Rouyo distillery or in Martinique with Braud & Quennesson or even Habitation Beauséjour with HBS rum. “It is the mark of a renewal. The whole sector is worthy and legitimate,” rejoices Hélène Martin.

But rum is not confined to the Caribbean borders. Indeed, “cane grows on all continents except Antarctica”, Cyrille Hugon playfully points out, particularly in Corsica where Rhum Tia, the first traditional Corsican dark rum, was born. In its latest edition, Rumblethe world’s leading magazine dedicated to rum and its culture, directed by Alexandre Vingtier, publishes a special file on the distilleries of France. From Thailand to Vietnam, via Australia, more than 70 countries now distill eau-de-vie made from sugar cane or its derivatives such as molasses or syrup. Rum has definitely conquered the whole world.

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