At dawn, the ria of Ethel in Morbihan transforms into a stunning landscape, highlighted by the historic Nichtarguer house of Saint-Cado. Marie-Armelle Portanguen reminisces about her childhood there, where the house, now dilapidated, once served as a caretaker’s lodge. The area, celebrated by artists for its unique colors, is steeped in local legends, particularly concerning the town’s bridge. Despite its charm, the ria remains a hub for oyster farming, showcasing its rich maritime heritage.
The Enchanting Ria of Ethel: A Surreal Dawn
As dawn breaks over the ria of Ethel in Morbihan, a breathtaking spectacle unfolds—a stunning array of pink hues that could easily be mistaken for a surrealist masterpiece. Amid this living artwork, an intriguing structure emerges from the water: the enigmatic Nichtarguer house of Saint-Cado, located within the municipality of Belz. Marie-Armelle Portanguen, a former oyster farmer’s daughter, shares her rich memories of this place, having spent her childhood there in the 1950s. In a captivating report featured at the beginning of this article, she presents the key to this historic house, now under the ownership of the local town hall. Unfortunately, the house currently sits in disrepair. “We were the third owners. Before us, it served merely as a caretaker’s lodge, as people would come to steal oysters at night,” she reminisces in front of our camera.
An Artist’s Muse: Stories of Saint-Cado
Marie-Armelle has an abundance of stories from her childhood on this isolated island. “There were sailors around, and I would accompany them to collect worms for bait. They often rewarded me with chocolates or candies for my help,” she fondly recalls. This humble abode has become a symbol of Brittany, captivating many artists, including Christian le Tallec, who has been painting it for over a decade. “The unique colors of the house are what draw so many painters in. The roof covered with lichen, the myriad of greens in the background, and the varying shades of blue surrounding the house,” he describes. “You could place ten painters in front of this little house, and each would produce something entirely different.”
The Nichtarguer house is now an inviting sight for visitors to the islet of Saint-Cado, a land rich in history and legends, particularly the tale surrounding the town’s bridge. According to local lore, a pact was made between a saint and the devil, where the devil promised to claim the first soul that crossed the bridge. “Saint-Cado cleverly tricked the devil by sending a cat racing across the bridge instead,” explains Pierre-Laurent Constantin, a heritage mediator. The islet, once a sardine port, is now home to a small community that welcomes tourists annually. “In the past, the tides didn’t reach this far. It has become a sacred place, a space for contemplation,” shares a local resident.
Despite the charm of the ria, fishing activities continue to thrive. Julie Nguyen, an expert on this wild area, highlights the importance of oyster farming in defining the landscape, particularly during low tide. “The oyster parks are visible now, showcasing the tables where oysters grow,” she notes. Sébastien Herpeux, one of the 40 oyster farmers working in the ria, explains that while the festivities may have ended, the task of sorting oysters remains crucial. “Our oysters are rich and briny, thanks to the nearby ocean. The ria, true to its name, acts like a small sea. We benefit from the tides and currents,” he elaborates.
There are five old oyster farmer houses along the ria of Ethel, yet none are currently occupied, standing as silent witnesses to the region’s rich maritime heritage.