Copenhagen at Christmas time – pure hygge

Christmas Copenhagen
Why a trip to the Danish capital is worthwhile even in winter

The Danish capital transforms into a true fairytale land in the run-up to Christmas. If you travel to Copenhagen in winter, you shouldn’t miss the Christmas markets. Our editor was thrilled by the hygge atmosphere.

As I walk up the stairs of the Kongens Nytorv metro station with my friend, only a few meters separate me from the Christmas wonderland on the new King’s Market in the middle of Copenhagen’s Old Town. Numerous lights shine on the large Christmas tree. There is a festive glow all around me as I look at the small stalls. English caramels line up alongside wool sweaters, jewelry and Gløgg. This is a type of mulled wine, but it tastes sweeter and there are small pieces of almonds and raisins in the cup. Here it is served in a plastic cup instead of in deposit cups.

The many colorful lights and the beautifully decorated houses around the Christmas market awaken a cozy and Christmassy mood in me. Visitors line up in front of a large, bright bear to take a photo with the huge figure. Anyway, I don’t really know where to look because everything is covered in a beautiful glow of lights. It’s simply hygge.

The term hygge has its origins in the Norwegian language, but the Danes also know what wellbeing is all about. Anyone who has ever been on holiday in… Denmark was, can confirm this warm, warm atmosphere. People are simply a little more relaxed and incorporate small, beautiful things into their everyday lives – like the warm light of the candle. For me, the whole city radiates the hygge way of life during Advent, so many decorated trees, houses, windows and squares.

Just a few steps further, Copenhagen’s former trading port is illuminated in a sea of ​​lights. Colorful old houses and almost every one has a pub or restaurant. Many artists used to live in the houses. Hans Christian Andersen lived, among other things, in house number 20 and wrote fairy tales there such as “The Girl with the Matchsticks”. During Advent, the Christmas market huts are located directly on the quay wall. You can also buy warm gloves, hats, glasses or one or two treats here.

Copenhagen in Advent

In addition to the Christmas markets, my friend and I also wanted to explore Nørrebro in wintery Copenhagen. In 2021, the quarter landed in the ranking “Timeout” magazine finally on the list of the 40 coolest neighborhoods. We take a bus from the city center into the district via the Dronning Louises Bro. The bridge connects the district with Copenhagen city center. The city’s defense system once ran here. Today people walk or jog along the side of the lakes that the bridge crosses. Nørrebrogade runs like a vein through Nørrebro. On the way to our breakfast spot we discover many small shops, including many vintage and second hand stores. If you want to go on a long shopping spree, it’s better not to go too late – many of the smaller shops close between 4 p.m. and 6 p.m.

When we arrive at Café Kaf, we make ourselves comfortable to try one of the famous pastries. Delicate puff pastry, with nuts and an almond cream on top – heavenly. Unfortunately, my stomach is now full, even though there are so many snack bars and restaurants in Copenhagen’s multicultural district that we could try. We stroll to the urban park Superkilen, where small swings, a boxing ring, fountains, hills and a drawn floor await us. Admittedly, it’s worth a visit, probably in summer, to sit in the sun with a cold beer. Given the drizzle and temperatures around freezing point, we end the evening in a bar. At Mikkeller we have a huge selection of craft beers and try our way through the Christmas varieties.

Another trendy district is directly west of the main train station, where the red light district is. Via Istedgade you can quickly reach the part of Vesterbro where there are numerous cafes, shops and bars. Some of them are not that easy to find. Bar 1656 is located on a side street. But instead of a billboard or neon sign, there is just a green door under a red lamp. The windows are covered with curtains. But anyone who dares to enter the bar despite its inconspicuous exterior will be rewarded with a good cocktail menu. Instead of the typical classics, there are only our own creations here – even a drinkable cheese platter. Guests sip their drinks in cozy niches on high chairs or on soft stools. Golden peacocks on a black background hang on the walls.

Christmas markets in the heart of Copenhagen

The opening times of the Christmas markets may seem a bit strange to some German city dwellers – but the Julemarked closes at 6 or 7 p.m. except for Friday and Saturday. At Nytrov Square, also located in the heart of the Danish capital, you will have the opportunity to take a photo with the famous Danish poet Hans Christian Andersen – this Christmas market is named after him. However, we didn’t meet him – but we did meet Santa Claus. He even has his own hut where children can knock and tell him what they want. Of course, taking photos is also allowed. Admittedly, since we visit this market on Sunday morning, the beautiful lights that transform the Christmas markets into small, cozy wonderlands in the evening are missing. Stalls with gemstones, wines named after Norse deities, hats, gloves can be found here alongside churros, bratwursts and a Gløgg stall. Incidentally, the first to also offer an alcohol-free version of the Danish classic.

We only have to walk a few minutes to go to the next Christmas market. At Højbro Plads we can also find Italian pastries, English caramel, the obligatory bratwurst, potato spirals and raclette in small huts. A stand is full of punched rolling pins that can give your own Christmas cookies a very special touch. Finally, I stand in the sleigh with Santa Claus for a photo. We actually wanted to visit the Christmas market in the Tivoli amusement park – but there wasn’t enough time for that! The amusement park is just a few minutes’ walk from the main train station and is transformed into a winter wonderland during Advent – which we’ll probably have to check out next year.