Bangladesh’s garment workers: still close to the poverty line

Status: 04/24/2023 06:23 a.m

Ten years ago, the Rana Plaza garment factory in Bangladesh collapsed. More than 1100 people lost their lives. What has changed since then – and what is still problematic?

By Oliver Mayer and Peter Hornung, ARD Studio New Delhi

Ismail Hossain stands concentrated at his workplace and cuts fabrics. For several years he has been working in the “4A Yarn Dyeing” textile factory, which is about a two-hour drive outside of Bangladesh’s capital, Dhaka. Over his shirt, he wears a yellow vest printed with bright red letters. “Firefighter” is written on it.

Hossain is one of around 100 employees trained by the company to be firefighters. When he talks about his job as a firefighter, his eyes light up. “We receive training every three months. I learn everything there to do with fire protection and evacuation,” he says.

“I’m taught what I have to do in an emergency to save my colleagues. I always look forward to the training sessions and I’m happy to be able to take part.” Working for the plant fire brigade is an honor for him. He likes doing it, he says.

Improved security standards, more controls

The fact that there is a fire brigade in Hossain’s factory at all is directly related to the collapse of the Rana Plaza textile factory on April 24, 2013, in which more than 1,100 people died and 2,500 were injured. In the building, in which some German companies also had clothing produced, elementary safety standards had not been met.

Since then, laws have been tightened and factory owners have been forced to invest more money in safety. In addition, part of the workforce must now be able to take rescue measures. Compliance with the regulations is now regularly checked.

Many lessons have been learned from the catastrophe, explains Abdullah al Rakib. He owns the “4A Yarn Dyeing” textile factory, a company that has been recognized by various testing agencies as particularly sustainable and safe. Al Rakib’s company produces clothing for luxury brands such as Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein.

10 years after the Rana Plaza textile factory building collapsed in Bangladesh

tagesschau24 10:00 a.m., April 24, 2023

Still difficult working conditions

“At the time, I had the impression that the whole country was suddenly waking up. Everyone was working flat out on solutions,” he says. “The factory owners, the government, clients, all discussed together. We’ve put a lot of money into state-of-the-art systems since then.”

Al Rakib’s company is undoubtedly a model company. There is a separate clinic for the employees on the premises. All emergency exits are wider than required by law, and there are several fire extinguishers on every corner.

The textile factory 4A Yarn Dyeing is considered a model company – the working conditions are anything but a matter of course elsewhere.

Image: dpa

Different standards

However, the standards are not that high everywhere in Bangladesh. Working conditions in the textile sector, which accounts for more than 80 percent of exports, are often difficult. Kalpona Akter, one of the country’s most influential textile activists, criticizes the lack of workers’ rights in particular.

“Forming a union is difficult. The workers can therefore hardly make themselves heard,” says Akter. “Basic rights cannot be exercised, even though they are in the law. Social security is also a big issue.”

Where the Rana Plaza textile factory used to be, wild aroids now thrive – the building has not been rebuilt.

Image: AFP

Low wage as the main problem

As a result, millions of people employed in the textile sector live close to or even below the poverty line. “Many people only earn the equivalent of around 70 euros per month and there is high inflation,” explains Akter. “For most it is difficult to eat a meal a day. They have to ration their food and that of their children too.”

A situation that Mohammad Rubel Mia is also familiar with. He works for the company “Style Museum”. He loves his work. But the wages, which are paid in large parts of the industry, are a big problem. “My father pays for a large part of the expenses that our family has to face,” says Rubel Mia. “I can then contribute a little bit of money myself.”

He says he feels safe at his job. But he doesn’t know how he can use the money to provide for himself and his family in the long term.

Bangladesh textile industry: 10 years Rana Plaza disaster

Peter Hornung, ARD New Delhi, April 24, 2023 8:46 a.m

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