From our special correspondent in Saint-Lary-Soulan,
The cows have agreed to share their domain for the day. They graze a stone’s throw from the finish line, around a few Tour de France partner cars resting on the short grass, at an altitude of 2,215 m. In two hours, the overwhelming Tadej Pogacar will win his sprint to the top
from the Portet pass, during a 17th stage which ends in the heart of the Saint-Lary-Soulan ski area.
The announcer proudly announces the “sixth highest finish on the Tour”. For the moment, the spectators are patiently patient in front of the giant screen which broadcasts the race, in a mist and a freshness (about ten degrees) quite far from the usual atmosphere of July 14 in the Pyrenees.
Most wear a “yellow jersey” cap signed by the partner bank. Not a “dress code”, just the result of a distribution made by a few hostesses. “This year, we find a little the real Tour de France”, smiles one of them, who prefers to keep his name silent, after having kindly dismissed a sixty-year-old who demanded two additional headgear for his nephews “who did not could not come ”.
“We bring a little happiness to people”
“It’s almost a return to normal, even if there are still the masks and restrictions,” resumes the young woman. Last year there were a lot of places behind closed doors and a lot less people. People are present, and we bring them a little happiness. That said, it wasn’t the same time either [le Tour avait eu lieu du 29 août au 20 septembre 2020]. “
Well, to be honest, it’s not crazy either at the top of the Col du Portet, when we passed countless cyclists of all ages on the way up, and found that the least non-rocky space was occupied by motorhomes, vans or cars, visibly beefy from the handbrake. But that is explained: the caravan and its gifts, irresistible magnets to spectators, branched off before the final cables of a climb that ends with a tunnel and a rough road that did not exist before the first visit of the Tour in 2018.
In addition, the last two kilometers of ascent (over 16 km, for an average gradient of 8.7%) were completed at the end of the morning, it seems for a question of “gauge” of the public at the top. “I had already done it three years ago and this pass is long and hard, observes the Toulousain Yves, 55 years old. But I don’t understand why they cut the road, I had to end up on foot… ”
The mask is compulsory but not always worn
The fifty-year-old, fan of Julian Alaphilippe, got up at dawn to reach Saint-Lary by car, before riding his bicycle. “I often come to the Tour, except last year. Sanitary standards? For me, it’s the same as before. The mask is not mandatory, it’s easier. In fact, it is, as a sign hung a few feet away indicates, even though many others besides Yves don’t seem to have paid more attention to it. We may want to forget it for a while, the Covid is like a sticking plaster that sticks at the time.
At least, the spectators of the arrival of the day, located in the Hautes-Pyrénées, did they not have to present a health pass, unlike those of the day before in Saint-Gaudens, on the initiative of the prefect of Haute-Garonne. “It’s true that yesterday [mardi], it was very, very calm, confirms the young woman with the yellow caps. The rain was not helping. “
The restrictions linked to the pandemic had prevented Klemen and Mateja from coming on the 2020 Tour. This time, this couple of young Slovenian quadras is there, “for Pogacar, and also Roglic, but hey …”. Obviously, the early withdrawal of the leader of Jumbo-Visma was well digested. “This is the first time and we are pleasantly surprised by the organization,” says Mateja.
Too bad if, with her companion, she too had to finish on foot the getaway started by bike in Arreau, about twenty km below, where their mobile home awaits them. “We stay several days, we take the opportunity to hike in the area, towards the lakes, and it’s sublime [on confirme, le massif du Néouvielle est d’une stupéfiante beauté]. We will also make the finish in Luz-Saint-Sauveur tomorrow [jeudi], still on a bicycle. “
The Slovenes may meet Mario, a 65-year-old Ecuadorian, who will continue to Paris, dressed in his national football team jersey. The Pyrenees are used to seeing a flock of Colombians, absolute fans of Nairo Quintana (forever the first to have tamed the Portet pass, three years ago). They are present again this Wednesday, with family and friends, often from close Spain where they live.
Ecuadorians are much rarer. And Mario’s journey “came for Richard Carapaz”, obviously, is completely new “I come from Ambato, 150 km south of Quito, where I took the plane to Madrid alone, before taking several trains, to Lannemezan, then the bus. And I climbed the pass on foot. I’m used to it, I’ve run marathons before, and this year I went to Camp IV of Everest. “
After the Tour, pilgrimage then marathon
At this point in the story, we are no longer surprised at anything. “After the arrival of the Tour in Paris, I will go to Irun [au Pays basque espagnol] where I will make the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, continues the former boss of a textile company. Then I will stay with friends in Portugal before participating in the Berlin Marathon on September 26th. “
On this very chilly July 14, the whole world met on a wild summit of the Pyrenees, at an altitude of more than 2,000 meters. Considering the period, one can well evoke “the magic of the Tour”, without fearing the cliché.