Abacco’s is not far from Jakobsplatz and therefore, according to its own advertising, “right in the pulsating heart of the beautiful city”. And anyone who, like Peffekoven, has experienced while eating, how the traffic in the direction of the city pulsates on the Oberanger, which passes the tables, and gives the air above the outdoor seating area of the steak house a slight diesel note, knows: Not too much is being promised. The Munich branch of the Swiss restaurant chain is housed in the noble Angerhof, of which the guest in the remarkably narrow and unadorned outdoor area of the restaurant has little. Better go in.
Fortunately, the 3-G rule and a cool club atmosphere are waiting inside somewhere between post-modern and neo-baroque, but nice to look at. Since 2019, Abacco’s Steakhouse has also been in Munich, and what can I say, it is very popular with the often younger audience, so reservations are highly recommended, even on weekdays. That may come as a surprise, as the more down-to-earth competitor chain Maredo even temporarily filed for bankruptcy and the well-known branch on the Rindermarkt is closed. However, as you can see at Abacco’s on Oberanger, the trend is probably towards high-end and event steak houses for wealthy guests.
Event in any case insofar as the basic principle goes like this: The restaurant delivers the best beef – and the guests roast it on the hot stone at the table. An internet critic who is apparently little familiar with the principle has even accused Abacco’s of having no cook at all, which is nonsense because there are a number of other dishes besides steaks, but with a real core: the guest sizzles his steak here himself as he likes it.
The whole range of steak variants is offered, in various sizes, starting at 150 grams up to half a kilo and more. Side dishes cost an extra 3.90 euros each, except for the french fries. There are only three home-made standard sauces with the steaks – barbecue, horseradish and chimichurri – but any amount. The meat comes from Argentina and Nebraska, for example, from organic, animal-friendly and hormone-free breeding, as it is called and what Peffekoven liked to believe in order not to have to ponder the connection between sustainability and steak house chains. And it was really of the highest quality.
The guests roast their own meat at the table on the hot stone.
(Photo: Stephan Rumpf)
Maybe it makes ecological sense, he thought over a bite of US Prime Delmonico Rib Eye Steak, if the 350 grams on the plate cost 39.90 euros? Or 300 grams of US Prime Tenderloin Fillet 60.40 euros. Because we become aware of how valuable meat is as food? But who can afford that, except (of course, exceptionally) testers and high income groups?
Peffekoven wanted to wash down this kind of brooding with a Hellen, but had to find out that a half here costs 4.80 euros, which he neglected for fundamental considerations related to beer / Munich / staple foods. Would you prefer wine then? Wine prices are also high, although not as bizarre as they have been in Munich for some time. Reduce the amount, shoot the price up to the stars, is the principle of many restaurateurs plagued by excessive rents and corona. Honest 0.2 liters of dry and easily drinkable Bockwartaler Riesling are available at Abacco’s for a comparatively fair 5.90 euros, a nice earthy Primitivo from Apulia for 7.90, and from then on things are looking up. Anyone who cries the 59.90 euros for a bottle of Zweigelt from the Umathum / Burgenland winery, which was admittedly awarded, will find consolation in the bold oenologist lyrics on the wine menu: “Luminous ruby red, spicy, peppery aroma that is reminiscent of ripe cherries, full-bodied with a pleasant, soft note of fruit , long-lasting.”
The Süddeutsche Zeitung’s restaurant review “Tasting” has a long tradition: it has been published weekly in the local section since 1975, and for several years also online and with a rating scale. About a dozen editors with culinary experience from all departments – from Munich, knowledge to politics – take turns writing about the city’s gastronomy. The choice is endless, the Bavarian economy is just as important as the Greek fish restaurant, the American fast food chain, the special bratwurst stand or the gourmet restaurant decorated with stars. The special thing about the SZ tasting: The authors write under pseudonyms, often with a culinary touch. You go undetected to the restaurant to be tested about two or three times, depending on how long the budget set by the editorial team lasts. Iron basic rules: a hundred days grace period until the kitchen of a new restaurant has settled in. And: Never get caught working as a restaurant critic – so that you can describe food and drink, service and atmosphere in an unbiased manner. SZ
If you don’t want a steak, you can get by here. There are spicy tiger prawns, tender New Zealand pasture lamb (depending on the portion from 19.90 euros) and chicken breast fillet (from 14.90 euros). The offer is naturally limited for vegetarians, the soups are recommended here, such as the beautifully spicy lentil soup with Italian Pardina lentils, carrots, celery, Parmesan and chili oil or the sweet potato soup with bay leaves, turmeric, crème fraîche and peppery heat (both 6.90 ). In the salads, only the Greek salad and the Caesar’s salad are meatless, both good average, the green is not really important here.
Peffekoven and the company found the staff to be really nice, attentive and eager to please the guests. You can sometimes find complaints about the service on the Internet, but Peffekoven only saw one ungracious waiter. Incidentally, Abacco’s goes to great lengths to personally answer almost every guest review on the Tripadvisor online portal, regardless of whether it is praise, serious criticism from guests or complaints from the usual network complainants (one even complains that the female staff is too attractive here). Is it worth the effort to get out of the monologues of some evaluators into a dialogue? Would be nice. But at least goodwill counts.
Address: Oberanger 31-33, 80331 Munich, Telephone: 089/242124, www.abaccos-steakhouse.de/muenchen, Opening times: Sunday to Thursday 11.30 a.m. to 11.30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11.30 a.m. to midnight